California Beer Tour

July 15, 2007—It was a misty morning as I headed out of Fort Bragg. Going further up the PCH, this is what it looked like:

Before long the road winded in away from the coast and the trees started getting bigger. I saw a sign saying “Avenue of the Giants” and decided to take the scenic route, paralleling the 101. I ended up in Humboldt Redwoods State Park, where the friendly park ranger told me the #1 hike to take plus the best place to stop for lunch north of the park. He also told me, when I asked whether I should bother going inland to the Shastas or stick to the coast, “do you have any idea how hot it is in Redding? 105.” Hence I stuck to the coast.

Looking at a 2-D picture of redwoods absolutely doesn’t do them justice. To look at the massive base of the tree in front of you, bigger than your arms can even span, and then tilt your head back as far as it will go and squint to see the top of the tree, sometimes up to 300 feet above your head. It is something you have to experience to appreciate. However, I did my best—


I took the “interpretive walk” the ranger recommended, a short loop that explained everything about the trees and the old-growth forest community. First was the massive Founders Tree, dedicated to those who first started buying up land in the area to preserve the redwoods. There were several fallen trees around (that is the thing about these old forests—once a tree gets too old it simply falls over from the roots and several baby ones grow up on it taking advantage of the new sun falling to the forest floor and the nutrients of the decomposing tree) and their exposed root systems were a crazy explosion of gnarled wood.














This fallen tree was formerly the tallest in the world at 364 feet. That’s 30 stories. As I walked along it I thought, “huh, so this is what it would be like to walk up a building.”

I really liked this tree—the bark was falling off in strips so it almost looked braided.

The forest floor was covered in beautiful green ferns and “sorrel”—clover to the rest of us. I also wish I could describe the beauty of a forest floor like this, blanketed in shades of green that are constantly shifting with the shadows, creating a sense of motion and depth like a reflection on water.












I also had to take the quintessential tourist shot of myself inside a redwood—



Then I stopped at the pretty little stream across the way…











Next I followed the ranger’s advice again to find the Eel River Brewing Company in Fortuna, CA. I have been tempted to start calling this blog the “Road Trip and Beer Tour 07” because I have been trying the local brews at all these little microbreweries, but sadly I forget all the names by the time I get back to my car, so it wouldn’t make for a very good review! At this brewery in particular, I had possibly the BEST steak of my life… a porter-smoked rib steak topped with a porter-smoked portabello, with a twice baked potato and veggies on the side (plus a salad). I am drooling thinking about it. I had to take a picture of the massiveness of my meal…

I also had to take a picture of the local carpenters next to me who gave me more tips on what campgrounds to stay at further up the coast and another brewery in the nearest town. This, I’ve discovered, is the secret to traveling by yourself—breweries and bar & grills usually have good food, good beers on tap, and you can relieve your loneliness and at the same time get good travel advice by sitting next to locals at the bar who are usually more than willing to chat. (Just be careful not to reveal exactly where you are staying or what your car looks like)

Coming out of the brewery I had to snap a pic of this cute little pup, who until I walked up was very busy ripping to shreds the McDonalds wrapper you can see on the seat. I’m sure the owner had a pleasant surprise when he/she returned!

So I headed up to the campground where the guys had told me I could sleep on the beach. The sign said full. I asked the camp host, who confirmed that all the tent sites were full, but told me I could sleep in my car in the parking lot if I wanted. Ok. But without having to set up a tent or anything, what was there to do until dark?? So I went to the other brewery the boys had recommended, 5 miles down the road in McKinleyville. I hung out there at the Six Rivers Brewery for a couple beers, just long enough for the two guys I was sitting next to at the bar to convince me to sing karaoke with them. It wasn’t too hard… I mean, I’m on a road trip around the country. It’s all about doing new things and never seeing these people again!!

The guys, Steve and Thomas (large fridge repairmen)

After my song I headed back to the campsite. I planned to finish my leftovers from the first brewery and go to bed. Just as I pulled up, though, another car pulled in next to me and two 50-some hippies got out. You know Cheech and Chong? Well they both looked, dressed, and spoke exactly like Chong. They were going to bring their sleeping bags to the beach and sleep under the stars, so I decided to accompany them over there while I had my dinner. It was a classic hippie conversation, complete with phrases such as “the sand is putting out this crazy energy…” and “I’m so high, maaaan.” I finished my leftovers and headed back to set up a little bed for myself in my car… and was very happy that I did about 1 hour later when I heard the rain start falling on its roof!!

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